There are many different lathe tools on the market and I seem to want them all! I have found that each manufacturer has a different style handle; I guess it is like a signature to them. I don’t really like the fit of most handles in my hand as they seam to be either too big or too small so I decided to make my own. Not knowing how it would come out, I was afraid to disassemble one of my tools for an experiment. So, I decided to make the whole tool instead. I have been lusting after one of the “Multi-Tip” scrapers because it seems that this one tool could do the job of many but the problem is its cost. This tool sells for $72.00 in my area. Now I own many tools from this manufacturer and have absolutely no complaints about the quality or value as a general rule but in this case they priced themselves out of my money. It is also a good way for me to spend a Sunday out of my wife’s hair.

The components I gathered together are as follows:

1 ½ X 1 ½ X 13” Quarter Sawn White Oak blank (because I had it)

½” X 36” Round Rod, Zinc Plated.

1” Copper pipe strait connector.

Tap Handle maximum ¼” Tap

Irwin #80220 10-24NC Tap with matching #25 Drill Bit.

Cutter Bit for Multi-Tip Scraper.

#10 Brass flat washers

Stainless Cap Screw #10-24 X ½”

The first thing I do is to cut the rod down to size. I cut it at 9 ½” as this will give me 6” of tool and 3 ½” of tang. Now there is probably someone much more knowledgeable than me on lathe tools that is reading this with a grimace but since this is my first homemade tool this size sounded good.

The next thing to do is to measure the cutter at its widest point as this cutter is made to be rotated. I also have to consider that this tip is an odd shape and will have to hang over the rod in any position.

Once I know how far to go I start thinking about how deep to grind. Since the Cutter is 1/8th of an inch thick I think that is how deep I will grind. The important thing here for me is that the surface I am grinding is perfectly flat or the bit could have a tendency to chatter. I also decide to round the tip and remove the sharp edge.

I set the round stock into the drill press vice and lock it in making sure it is level and 90 degrees to the bit. I have marked the coming hole to where the bit will extend past the rod no mater how it is rotated and is still far enough back for strength.

I then begin to tap the hole remembering to apply some cutting oil and only turn a quarter turn at a time before backing out. This clears the tap of shavings and is very important because the last thing I want to do at this point is break a tap. Now I check the screw and make sure it runs true and strait.

Time for a test fit of the bit. Everything looks very good with a nice flat fit with little to no sloppiness.

To do all the grinding on the rod I used my trusty old Ryobi side grinder with a cutting wheel. Not only does this take off the metal quicker but lets me get a nice flat surface on the round rod. As you can see from the picture I put a slight taper on the tang but did manage to get in a hurry and get the steel too hot. This should not be a problem since it is so far down on the tang. Yes, I know I need a new wheel on the grinder; I have had this one on there through many projects now.